Organic Lawn Care

Many homeowners are considering the option of using fewer synthetic fertilizers on their lawns and gardens. More lawn care companies are now offering an organic alternative to their regular programs, which involve using synthetic fertilizers, insecticides and herbicides. I hope the following will inform you of some of the different products on the market and practices you, as a homeowner should keep in mind if you decide to free your lawn and garden from chemicals and go with an organic approach to gardening.

Info on Fiesta Weed Control Product

Weed control

Ultimately hand pulling is the best way to control weeds without using herbicides, however it is not always practical. Special tools for this are available at most garden centers. Growing a thick, lush and healthy lawn by aerating, topdressing with good compost and over-seeding with disease and insect resistant grasses will block valuable sunlight to germinating weed seeds and help prevent new weeds from invading. Horticultural vinegars work very well for non-selective weed control around buildings, interlock and flagstone walkways, curbs and driveways.

Natural Grub Control

Grubs are a growing problem, especially if a hungry raccoon or skunk has discovered them in your lawn. There are good chemical treatments, however they can only be applied in the summer when the grubs are in their early stage of development. The organic alternative involves applying live nematodes to your lawn or garden. These nematodes are a special live formulation of microscopic worms. Nematodes do not harm or attack people, pets or plants, they are parasites of insect’s larvae that can be affected by some chemicals – (see list below). Nematodes are non-selective and therefore attack a wide range of over 250 different root zones pests, including white grubs, earwigs, slugs, Japanese beetles, borers, fleas, cutworms, ants and countless other beetle larvae found in the root zone. They are very aggressive in seeking out insects, but only move about one inch in their lifetime. They can also survive in soil 60-90 days without finding a host insect. They enter the host insect through a body opening or side-wall tissue and release a bacterium that begins to destroy within 72 hours. The nematodes can reproduce inside the insect. Two nematodes in a ¾ inch insect larva can reproduce as many as 2,000,000 more nematodes in 2-3 weeks.

Natural Insect Control

Overseeding with resistant grasses is a good practice. There is in fact a certain grass that is resistant to the very destructive insect called Chinch Bug which is a very common insect found destroying your lawn in the summer. To help discourage Chinch Bug, overseed your lawn with a “Perennial Ryegrass” that has been fortified with endophytes. Chinch Bugs do not like to eat this particular grass and will feed somewhere else. This grass is also resistant to many grass diseases.
Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.) is another option for insect control. Millions of years ago, microscopic one-celled plants called diotoms took the minerals from the oceans and created protective shells for themselves. Diatoms once lived in quantities far beyond the minds’ ability to conceive, and as they died their shells drifted to the bottom of the seabeds. There are many ways in which man benefits from this incredible material left by diatoms, whose shells are composed largely of silicon dioxide, along with trace minerals.
While other insecticides kill chemically, and insects, most usually over time, develop immunity to these chemicals, D.E. kills bugs physically and insects have not yet been known to build immunity to a physical action. D.E. is certain death to insects because it kills by actually puncturing the insects’ exoskeleton, disrupting its soft waxy shell structure, chewing up its digestive organs and causing death in a short time by dehydration. While it is deadly to insects, it does not endanger animals, plants or people
It is wise to apply D.E. prior to insect infestation. While the D.E. is safe for animals, plants and people, it is best to guard against inhaling the D.E. dust when applying.

Aeration

Aeration is one of the most important maintenance practices we can employ to help the lawn remain healthy and help ward off problems. It is estimated that over two thirds (2/3) of residential lawns are growing on compacted soils. Many times, there is no evidence of insect or disease activity, but the lawn seems to be off colour, thinning, and shows signs of stress in high temperatures. In general, the lawn seems lethargic. Chances are good that the lawn hasn’t been aerated in the past few years…if ever.
Compaction is a physical process that slowly reduces the amount of oxygen contained in the soil and nutrient movement to the roots…the critical part of a healthy grass plant. Roots of the plant need oxygen, and as a product of their growth process, give off carbon dioxide. As compaction increases, less and less oxygen can enter the soil and less carbon dioxide can escape. The net result is a gradually thinning lawn until, ultimately, the soil can no longer support any turf growth.
Aeration will prevent or help a number of problems, including compaction and thatch buildup. It opens passageways in the soil, allowing better air, water, and nutrient movement. During drought conditions, aeration helps water reach thirsty roots. When rain is heavy, it allows air to penetrate and help dry up excess moisture. Each is a stress condition for your grass.

Fertilizing

Understanding and implementing a well balanced fertilizer program is one of the most important factors in maintaining an attractive healthy lawn. Factors that will determine the most suitable fertilizer regime for an individual home lawn are soil type, climate, irrigation, mowing practices and species of grass.

The three main nutrients required by turfgrass are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen promotes dark green color, leaf and blade development and density of the turf. Phosphorus is important for good root and rhizome development and promoting plant maturity. Potassium contributes to the general vigor of the plant and promotes wear and drought tolerance and hardiness against winter injury.

The amount of nutrients required by a home lawn is most accurately determined by soil testing. Generally, 1.5-2 kg / 100 m2 of actual nitrogen can be applied throughout the season, split into 2-4 applications. A soil test will provide levels of phosphorus, potassium, pH and lime requirements. Nitrogen has to be replenished every year, while phosphorus and potassium are relatively stable in the soil. On newly established la